- Install the Mauerlatt around the perimeter of the house. In wooden structures, the upper beam or log serves as a mauerlat. In stone - brick or block - buildings, the beam of the Mauerlat is fixed to the studs or anchors fixed in the walls during the laying at a distance of no more than 2 meters. Align the Mauerlatt to the inner plane of the wall, the remaining outside the wall is later laid with decorative masonry. A bar of Mauerlata from dry coniferous wood usually has a section of 100 or 150 mm. Saw the beam of the required length, straighten if necessary anchor pins and lay a bar over them. Lightly tapping with a hammer. On the bar there are dents from the studs, they drill a hole of the required diameter. To mark a bar it is possible and by means of a roulette, but the probability of an error in this case above. The wall is laid roll waterproofing, you can use a common ruberoid in two layers. Mauerlat put on the studs and tighten the nuts.
Installation of Mauerlate on a brick wall using wooden plugs
- For beams of overlap, coniferous beams of a section of 100x200 mm are usually used. Beams overlap or lay on top of the Mauerlat with the exit beyond the wall of the wall at 0.3-0.5 meters, or in specially designed pockets for this in the masonry. In the first case, the beams are fixed with corners and screws. To ensure that the floors are level, the beams are laid in strict sequence: first, the extreme in level, then, pulling the lace, the intermediate ones are aligned on them. The pitch of the joists is usually from 50 to 100 cm, but the most convenient step is 60 cm, which allows you to lay the insulation plates without trimming. To equalize the height of the beams, they are podsesyvayut or use pads from the board. If the joists are laid in special pockets in the masonry, their ends must be treated with oil-insulating waterproofing and wrapped with ruberoid. Align them in the same way.
- On the edge beams of the floors are installed racks. The outriggers are made from a bar of 100x150 mm, the height and the line of installation of the racks are determined according to the previously prepared drawing. The racks are leveled using a level and a plumb and temporarily fixed with jigs in perpendicular directions - along and across the roof axis. This will allow you to install racks without deviations in any direction. The slabs are made from any board and nailed to the nails. Between the outermost drains, pull the lace and expose the rest of the strut with a step equal to the step of the beams of the slabs, that is, to each beam. All racks are fixed similarly to the extreme. You should get two rows of racks of the same height, running parallel to each other.
The attic roof device
- The racks stack and fasten the runs from the board 50x150 mm, fix the runs on the nails of 150 mm and on the corners with the help of self-tapping screws. On the girders put the crossbar from the board 50x200 mm narrow side down - this will increase their rigidity. Since the load will not be applied to the deadbolt, this section of the board is sufficient, however, in order to exclude their deflection and increase the reliability during the installation, when installing the crossbars under them put temporary supports from the board not thinner than 25 mm. On top of the crossbar, fasten one or two boards - also temporarily, before installing the rafters. In this case, the boards should be located not in the middle of the tightening - there they will interfere with further installation, and retreat about 30 cm. After installing the racks, runs and crossbars, you get a rigid construction that limits the inner premises of the attic. To increase its strength, it is subsequently fixed with struts and fights.
- Install the lower rafters from the board 50x150 mm. First, the template is executed from a board of 25x150 mm - it is easier and faster to process. The board of the required length is applied to the upper run, draw the shape of the cut directly on the board and cut it out. Apply the template to the run at the places where the rafters are installed, and if it matches everywhere, then the upper part of all the rafters can be executed according to the template. The lower part, resting on the mauerlat next to the joists, is cut out each time in place. The rafters are fastened with corners and screws and with nails.
Example of fastening of rafters
- To perform the upper rafters, it is necessary to mark the center of the roof. This can be done with a temporary stand, nailed to the Mauerlat and extreme tightening from the end of the roof so that one edge of the board passes along the central line of the roof. On this edge and level rafters. Next, prepare a template from the board 25x150 mm, applying it at the edge of the installed board at the desired level and to the run on which the lower rafters rest. Mark the upper and lower cuts and cut out the pattern. Apply it alternately to both sides of the roof, checking how accurately its center is marked. If the rows of racks are made in parallel, then problems with the installation of the upper rafter should not be - they will all have the same size.
- The required number of rafter legs is made according to the pattern. The rafters are mounted on the girders and connected at the top by means of overhead metal plates or cuttings of the board to self-tapping screws. In the run the rafters rest on the cuts and fix on the corners. To ensure that the rafters are straight, they are fixed by means of struts, set by the lower end for tightening. So put all the rafters. The suspension racks are fastened - pieces of a board 25х150 mm. The upper edge of the board is fixed at the junction of the rafters, the lower edge is tightened.
- Put the braces under the lower rafters from the board 50x150 mm, resting them with the lower oblique cut into the floor beam and fixing on the corners, and the upper edge is fastened to the side of the rafter, nailed to one or two nails, then drilled through hole and fixed to a bolt orpin. After the installation of the lower struts, all temporary supports and racks are removed.
- Sew the pediments, leaving the door and window openings. If beams overlap in the pockets of the walls, on the lower rafters fix the filly - boards that continue the line of rafters and form the overhang of the roof. When laying overlaps on top of the Mauerlat, the beams and so extend to the required distance, and there is no need in the mare.
- Attach a crate suitable for the type of roofing - solid or sparse. On the crate are put waterproofing and begin to install a roofing covering, for example, corrugated board.
Technology for erecting a broken roof skeleton
Roof cover for a dormer roof
A broken roof skylight usually does not need to be insulated - only the walls and the ceiling of the attic are insulated. The air space formed under the rafters ensures good attenuation of the attic, reduces the heating of the attic rooms in the summer and provides additional insulation in winter. Therefore, when embedding pediments, it is important to leave the ventilation windows in the upper part of the roof, above the floors of the attic floor.
Video - instruction for the construction of the attic roof
Mansard called the roof, under which are arranged living rooms. The form of the attic roof can be different, but most often the attic is equipped under a gable roof. The most rational solution, which allows you to get the maximum useful area of a residential attic, is a mansard roof with a broken slope line.
Mansard roof with their own hands
The phases of the roof construction with their own hands are similar in many respects to the construction of a conventional gable roof, as well as the names of the elements that make up its skeleton. These include:
- Mauerlat - a support beam that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the structure;
- Floor joists - boards forming the floor of the attic and the ceiling of the lower floor;
- Racks - vertical supports supporting the rafter system;
- Runs - horizontal supports for rafters;
- Rigel - transverse horizontal elements, tightening the roof slopes among themselves, otherwise they are called puffs;
- Rafters - boards forming the main contour of the roof;
- Suspension - suspension rack, supporting the tightening and redistributing the load between the rafters;
- Oblashka - boards or sheets of plywood, designed for laying over them roofing and transferring the load to the truss system;
- Lappings - boards fixed along the axis at the bottom of the rafters and designed to form a roof overhang.
Skeleton for a roof roof
The cross-section of roof elements is determined by calculation, the article shows the materials most frequently used in private construction.
The device of a broken roof skylight and its differences
As already mentioned, a roof with broken slopes is slightly different from a simple gable roof. The difference lies in the form of opposite rajids: they are not a straight line, but consist of two skates connected at an obtuse angle. The roof can be both symmetrical, and have different forms of opposite skates - it depends on the project.
Thanks to the broken form, the useful used volume of the attic space significantly increases. The lower part of the rafters is usually installed at an angle of about 60 degrees to the horizon, and the supporting pillars supporting these rafters play the role of the framework of internal walls. The upper part of the rafters is most often installed at a small angle, from 15 to 45 degrees - this saves materials, but retains the functionality of the roof and its resistance to snow loads.
Mansard roof construction
Roof railing system for a roof roof
Vertical racks resting on joists, girders and their connecting puffs form a parallelepiped that limits the inner dimensions of the attic. To impart a structure of additional rigidity, install struts between the beams of the slabs and the lower rafters. After installing the upper rafters to strengthen the farm and eliminate the slack of the crossbars, pendant supports are installed - the pasterns. For additional strengthening of the lower rafters, they are pulled together with the posts by means of fights. Fastening of elements is made with the help of nails and bolts or studs.
Calculating the dimensions of the attic roof
The main condition for a comfortable attic is the ceiling height - it should not be less than 2.5 meters. To ensure such a height of the room, the line of kink roof must be at a height of not less than 2.8 meters, taking into account the thickness of the insulation layer and the inner covering of the attic, as well as the thickness of the finishing floors.
Before you start buying materials and building a roof, you need to draw a detailed drawing, which will indicate the overall dimensions of the house, the skate line and the height of the attic.
Drawing - Dimensions of the Attic Roof
