Russian oven with own hands

To perform work on the erection of any brick oven, it is recommended to carefully study the instructions and thoroughly understand the schemes, and the still better than the - to pass the practice with an experienced stove worker.

The Russian oven with its own hands can be folded under the guidance of a qualified craftsman who will not allow making mistakes when laying and reading the order. It is necessary to know that even one-only incorrectly placed brick can spoil all the work done. There are cases when, due to this oversight, it was necessary to re-lay the masonry, because either a very strong unnecessary traction was created, resulting in a surplus of firewood, or it was absent altogether.

If, despite all the difficulties and cautions, the still decided to take on the role of the stoveman without making "fatal" mistakes, it is necessary to strictly follow the rules of work and the most serious way to choose a quality material.

In order to avoid claims from a fire inspection, it is necessary to know that all the capitally arranged heaters must fully comply with the established parameters( SNiP 41 - 01-2003).

Basic structure of Russian stove

Russian oven can have different models, but it is always a heating and cooking, and plus this - necessarily has an oven and at least a small bench.

In order for to start with , it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the structure of the furnace, , so that the knows the name of each of its department.

The basic scheme of the traditional Russian stove assumes the presence of the following departments:

1 - Submerged is arranged for drying firewood in reserve. This department is not available in all furnace models, as it is not sufficiently functional.

2 - Cold stove, too, is not always satisfied, but it is typical for a Russian stove. This department serves to store utensils.

3 - Sixth - is a niche in front of the crucible. This is where the hob is often arranged, if the oven has a slightly different structure. If the stove is not present, leave the cooked food in the stove in order to keep it hot longer.

4 - The - is the bottom of the furnace or cooking chamber. This furnace element is arranged with a slight inclination to the entrance to the chamber, to facilitate the movement of the set in the .In addition, the surface of this element is recommended to be well sanded.

5 - Cooking chamber or crucible, in traditional ovens, firewood is placed in it and heat-resistant dishes are placed in which food is prepared. The camera's lead, as well as under, is made with a slight inclination towards the entrance. This configuration promotes the accumulation of hot air under the ceiling, and it warms the stove and side walls of the stove well.

6 - Overturn is a niche of above the pole, above it begins chimney pipe.

7 - Dryer or samovar was installed earlier and was intended for a pipe from a samovar that was installed in this hole. The samovar comes out into the flue pipe. Today this department in the furnace most often does not suit, since does not need .

8 - Thermal channel above the pole.

9 - A view is a window with a door that covers the chimney completely. Through this hole get to the damper, which regulates traction, moving horizontally. The damper is a metal plate, well finished at the edges. Today, this element is often replaced with a special latch.

10 - Location of the damper.

11 - The couch is located above the furnace, behind the chimney. During the fire, this section of the furnace is always well warmed up. Previously, the couch was used in the winter time, as to to dig, so it was arranged large enough so that the seats were enough for several people.

In the modernized version of the Russian stove, the order of which will be presented below, some elements of the traditional structure have been replaced. However, , the new model has become more functional, as it has a hob and a hot water tank.

The modern version differs from the traditional with the and the heating in the is provided for the heating of the tampering section . This allows the furnace to reach the required temperature much faster, and more heat from the to the .

The presence in the design of different departments allows in summer to heat only the cooking stove for cooking, the does not heat the entire structure completely, which helps to maintain the necessary microclimate in the house and save fuel. In winter, when all the channels are warmed up, the oven becomes a multifunctional - the can simultaneously be an oven, a stove, heat water and premises, and also be an warm bed.

Such changes became possible when installing an additional "summer" flap for the cooking chamber.

The modern version of the furnace is able to maintain a comfortable temperature in an area equal to 35 ÷ 40 m².

Getting to work on the Russian stove, you need to conduct preparatory activities that begin with the planning of the installation site.

Choosing a place for a Russian stove

A very important point is the correct choice of the place where the construction will be erected. If the oven is installed in a wooden building, then a distance must be calculated between its walls and with the walls of the at home, which must be at least 200 mm. In addition, wooden walls must be secured by fixing non-combustible material - to them, asbestos plates are most often used for this. This gap will also ensure free inspection of the furnace walls, which must be carried out before each heating season begins.

If the space between the two rooms is chosen for the building, the opening in the wooden wall should be covered with a brickwork, also at least 200 mm thick. In addition, a gasket from the same asbestos sheet can be arranged between the masonry and the wood.

Tools for masonry work

Whatever furnace model is chosen, for its masonry will need the same tools, which must be prepared in advance.

1 - A trowel or trowel is required to remove the masonry mortar from and apply it to bricks, and also to clean the masonry from the excess of the mixture that emerged between the joints.

2 - A hammer-pick is needed for basting and splitting of bricks, because will have to adjust the to separate masonry elements or to give them a certain shape.

3 - An extension will be needed if the oven is not trimmed with decorative tiles, and the masonry should have a perfectly neat appearance. This tool is made up of horizontal and vertical seams.

4 - The cord is used to control the smoothness of the rows, but more often in our time when laying the walls of the stoves, the masters are limited to the construction level and the plumb line.

5 - Order - is a very useful tool that will help to maintain vertical masonry, as well as to maintain the same thickness of horizontal joints.

6 - The plumb line also measures the verticality of the wall, and its convenience is that it is easily and quickly installed in the right place.

7 - The building level is indispensable when working on any masonry, so it should always be at hand, as it checks the consistency of each stacked row, when the still has the ability to promptly make any changes.

8 - The rule is most often used only once, when leveling the foundation surface.

9 - Blade and container for kneading mortar.

10 - It is not a bad idea to have a measuring bar, which will measure the width of the seams.

Required Materials

For each furnace model, purchases its number of materials, depending on the of its value. In addition to laying the walls and all its interior( in accordance with the order), construction materials will be required for the foundation as well, which must be done very reliably , as the Russian stove is a fairly massive structure.

It is not worth saving by buying cheap poor-quality building materials, if you want the building to be both respectable for appearance, and effectively worked directly for its purpose.

Below is a table of the necessary materials for the construction of the Russian furnace with a size of 1600 mm in width, 2380 mm in length and 1900 ÷ 2000 mm in height, often called "Teplushka".

Description of materials and components	Size in mm	Quantity( pcs., Kg or m)
Hardened red brick M-200	250 × 120 × 65	1850 - 1860 pcs.
Clay fat	Clay grease Clay grease
	sand	300 kg
Two-burner hob	400 × 700	1
Grate	200 × 280	2
Grate asdf	250 × 380	1
Firing door	250 × 210	1
Stove door	250 × 180	1
Cleaning door	130 × 130	2
Cleaning door	130 × 200	1
Door for door	250 × 150	1
Smoke damper	180 × 260	1
Shutter for the furnace	380 × 450	1
Hot water tank	280 × 120 × 500	1
Steel Corner	5 × 60 × 60	1,5 m
Steel strip	5 × 50 - 60	20 - 25 m
Steel sheet	5 mm	1

In addition to materials for masonry furnaces, it is necessary to purchase everything necessary for the foundation of the - rubble, boards for formwork, sand, reinforcement with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm and cement , the amount of these materials will depend on the depth and width of the substrate.

Fundament nt for i of Russian stove

As the brick Russian stove is quite a massive structure, the basis for is and is reliable .Therefore, a good foundation is essential, for which the will have to dig the appropriate excavation for the .

• The size of the pit must exceed the perimeter of the furnace base by 120 ÷ 150 mm in each direction. The depth of excavation is calculated depending on the density and stability of the soil, but the average of its value varies between 500 and 700 mm.
• The bottom of the finished pit is covered with sand, which is watered and carefully compacted, up to , the thickness of this waterproofing layer is 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• Rubble or broken brick is poured onto the sand, which is also rammed. This layer should be 100 ÷ 150 mm, and then it should be leveled with a small layer of sand, which is also spilled by and leveled.
• Next, this layer is covered with two layers of roofing paper. Then, a formwork made of boards is installed on the roofing material, and that the concrete solution monolithically fills the box and does not flow into the gaps between the boards, the formwork walls are covered with a dense polyethylene with film.
• The mortar is made of cement( one part of ), sand( three parts of ), gravel( five parts of ) and water, with which the mixture is brought to the required semi-liquid consistency.
• A rough concrete mortar is poured into the prepared formwork, which is made of gravel and cement. The thickness of the primed layer must be 200 ÷ 220 mm. In order for the to be filled with air bubbles in the bathed , it is pierced several times with a bayonet shovel, simultaneously ramming the solution.
• When starts to set , vertical reinforcement rods are installed in it, 50 to 70 mm longer than the filled surface.
• Next, the next layer of mortar thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm is poured. After its setting, a reinforcement mesh is laid on the surface, and the formwork is filled to the top with a solution, and then the flooded surface is leveled with the rule, but the set horizon( usually the is the upper cut of the formwork).
• After complete hardening of concrete and recruitment of the required strength, is covered with with one layer of roofing material.

Mortar for laying the stove

The mortar for laying the furnace must be elastic and thin, and when dry, do not crack and seal seams well. It is not easy to prepare the right solution, therefore every master of stove works has his secrets in the selection of materials and in mixing the mixture.

Today in specialized stores you can buy a ready-made heat-resistant mixture, intended for laying the walls of stoves. However, according to experienced stoves, the present traditional solution of clay with the addition of sand is much preferable to the ready mixes made on the basis of cement. This is really so for various reasons, one of which is - eco-friendly solution.

The main difficulty of self-manufacturing clay mortar is in the selection of clay, as this material can be excessively greasy or on the contrary , lean. For the solution that will be used to build the furnace, you need to choose the fatty clay - it will make the mixture elastic, which is very important for obtaining high-quality smooth and durable seams.

Finding the right proportions for a quality solution is difficult, and this process will require the of a certain time.

• For this, the purchased clay must be primarily , thoroughly cleaned of various debris and foreign inclusions, and then soak the on for an day in water.
• Further, its small portions are mixed in different proportions with sand. Of this mass, pellets are made one centimeter thick, after which they are left to dry on two or three days, having previously recorded how many parts of clay and sand are in each of the test mixtures.
• After the specified time it is necessary to check which pellets are formed with fewer cracks - , which means that the whole solution needs to be kneaded in such proportions.

Before kneading the whole mass, the soaked clay is recommended to be wiped through a mesh having 5 mm cells. This process with the makes the mass as homogeneous as possible and eliminates the problems when laying.

To spread the firebox, clay powder is often added to the finished clay solution in the proportion of one to three ÷ four , that is, one part of the powder for 3 - 4 parts of the clay solution.

Masonry of the Russian oven

In order for the furnace to be safe for the tenants of the house, the masonry must be absolutely airtight, so it is impossible to take substandard bricks that have cracks. The thickness of the seams between the rows should vary between 5 ÷ 8 mm. It is not recommended to coat the walls of the furnace from inside with clay, in order to achieve the desired tightness, since the solution will promote the formation of sediments and reduce the thermal conductivity.

Masonry is produced in different departments of the furnace in one brick ( length brick ), in the half-brick( width of the brick ) and in the quarter of the brick ( thickness of the brick ).

The dressing of the furnace angles is done in different ways, depending on the thickness of the masonry, but the basic principle is the weave spoon and the poke .

It is recommended to steep the ceramic brick before laying, as in this case it will not absorb water from the solution, and therefore the brick and mortar will dry evenly, showing high mutual adhesion and giving a good seal to the walls.

The excessive solution that comes out of the seams should be removed immediately , both from the outside, and from within the masonry - this will ensure the accuracy and maximum functionality of the structure.

External walls can lay out in one or half a brick, internal as usual - only in half of a brick. If the exterior walls are thick, then the oven will be warmed up for a longer time, and for its heating will require a large amount of fuel, so the half-brick - is the most optimal variation nt for I lay , both internal of the external walls of the heating structure.

Order bricklaying of the stove

The order can be called the basic instruction on the laying of the furnace, which shows in detail how each brick in this row should lie, and which of the additional elements are used at a particular stage. By following exactly this instruction, you can slowly "lift" the structure of the furnace yourself. The only thing that is recommended to learn - is to properly lay and reconcile the rows of bricks. Such training is best done on dry bricks, and then - and with a solution.

Experienced stoves are advised to lay out each of the rows dry - this will fit the dimensions of all the bricks to the necessary in this row, and do not make mistakes in the intricacies of the inner masonry.

• The first row sets the right direction, ensures the smoothness and accuracy of the entire structure, therefore before starting its masonry even dry, it is recommended to draw the exact location of the external walls of the furnace. This can be done using a long ruler, corner and chalk.

. On the marked surface, first lay the bricks of the outer wall, and then fill the internal space between them, following the pattern indicated in the order.

• . From the second row, the walls of the furnace begin to be laid out, internal channels for cleaning are made, as well as an ash pan.

• On the third row is installed two two ryts - and an cleaning cameras. The doors are fastened with a steel wire, which is fastened to the lugs located on the cast-iron doors, and its ends are placed in the seams between the bricks. Before the doors are completely embedded in the wall, they are temporarily supported on both sides by bricks.

• is closed. On the fourth row, the masonry covers the tops of the entrances to all internal channels on the furnace walls, forming holes, and completely decorates the ceiling of the canal channel inside the building.

• On the fifth row there is a grate grating for the large firebox, and the inner masonry of the furnace is installed without mortar. Very often for this purpose, fireclay bricks are used, cut in thickness in half. On the same row, a small firebox door is installed above the floor channel.

• is installed. The sixth row includes the installation of a hot water tank. The inner layer of the furnace is continued to spread with fireclay bricks.

• In the seventh row, the grate is installed in the small firebox and the door to the large firebox. The right wall is pulled together by a steel strip, which fits into the seam and is fixed to the walls by specially designed at the ends of the hooks. The rear wall of the large furnace is laid out with a brick without mortar. On the outer wall, on the inner masonry between the bricks, gaps are made for better heat transfer.

• On the eighth and ninth rows, the door of the small furnace is mounted and fixed, and also the extraction of internal furnace channels continues.

• The bottom of the cooking chamber( the furnace) is laid on the tenth row and the arches of two fireplaces - are combined small and large. The holes of the channels in the rear part of the building, which are intended for the movement of heated air, are left open, and are discharged into the cooking chamber. Also on this row the water tank is closed.

• On the eleventh row, on the edge of the masonry, over the two fireboxes, the prepared 50 x 50 mm metal corner - is fixed, it will be a good base for installation in the place of the hob. The remaining open space of the large furnace is covered with a grate behind the plate, which is not fixed.

• On the twelfth row begin to form the front wall of the cooking chamber and the side walls of the hob. On the left side of the plate, a horizontal valve is installed, which will serve as a flap for the cooking chamber. To the left of the valve starts the formation of the bottom of the chimney. The damper will cover the opening between the furnace and the chimney.

• On the thirteenth row the works for the same configuration of the drawing, which is set 12 next.

• The 14th row forms the entrance to the chimney pipe, which will open when the vertical latch installed for the cooking chamber is shifted. In addition, the walls of the crucible are displayed, and an opening is made for the flap

• On the fifteenth row of the masonry, the comes to a narrowing, blocking the cooking chamber. At the same time chimney pipe is displayed.

• The fastening of the side walls with metal strips with the stoppers exiting to the outer sides of the walls takes place on the sixteenth row after the masonry repeating the 15 row of the .

• On the 17th row, several significant actions are performed:

- the screed is installed with a metal strip of the back wall of the furnace;

- the constriction of the chamber of the cooking chamber continues and a place is set for the beginning of laying of the arch;

- further chimney laying takes place;

- above the niche where the hob is installed, a metal corner and strip - are laid, they will become the basis for laying bricks, which will start to create a ceiling above the stove.

• . On the eighteenth row, a template is mounted on the back of the furnace, above the crucible, or a welded metal arch structure is welded. The template is laid out a domed vault of the cooking chamber. Bricks are installed on the end piece - the spoon.

On a fixed metal corner and strip lay a row of bricks, laying them on a wide part of the brick - bed.

If a pattern is chosen for the removal of the vault template from the plywood and the bar, it is made necessarily collapsible, so that it can be easily removed after the solution has solidified, fixing the bricks that form the arch. Two semicircular details are cut from the plywood, which are fixed by the with removable pins to two rectangular frames or bars and are exposed to the embedded bricks.

Approximately the design looks like this.

On top of the semicircle are covered with a flooring of narrow boards that are assembled with each other using ropes , ie .the flooring will be flexible. After the solution is frozen in the masonry, the supporting bricks are removed, the structure is lowered to the bottom of the cooking chamber, then the flexible flooring is removed and the pins are pulled out, and then all the elements are removed from the crucible.

• On the nineteenth row, the wall above the entrance to the cooking chamber is strengthened by a metal strip. Around the arch of the crucible, the walls are built, which form a space for backfilling.
• 

  On the 20th row, the space above the furnace is filled with clean sand

• On the 20- the row, after erecting the walls above the vault in one row, the space above the cooking chamber is covered with sand, which is carefully compacted. This layer increases the heat capacity of the crucible, which provides quality bread baking.

• Further, on the 21- the row, the surface covered with sand is covered with masonry along with the walls, and comes on the front of the narrowing of the pipe.

• On the 22- the series is narrowed overtube and installed metal element nt with cr with an angled hole that will facilitate redirection of smoke, in some way delaying heat.

• The continues to be displayed on the series and the door for cleaning the chimney is installed.

• The 24- ohm series is fitted with a gate valve on the overtube , which will regulate the thrust in the furnaces and crucible.

• When laying the 25th and 26th rows, the space above the latch is still covered by the with masonry.

• pipe. On the 27- , the 29th series, the fusion is combined with the chimney.
• Further, goes laying chimney pipe and rises to the level when the cutting starts to form. It is recommended that when laying a chimney of an attic floor, make a masonry on the cement mortar.

• After this, after passing the pipe through the attic, its is taken out to the roof, spreading the otter and making a reliable around the waterproofing that will close the gaps between the chimney and the roofing material.

Video: The orderly laying of two variations of the Russian oven

Drying the lined stove

After completing the masonry process, the stove can not be immediately heated at full strength, since in this case it will dry out unevenly and unpleasant stains appear on the surface of the walls. In addition, the mortar at the seams can go cracked, and the will occur depressurization of the walls.

To prevent this, the oven must undergo the process of natural drying for 10 ÷ 12 days. In this case, it is necessary to open all the latches and doors. In order to create favorable conditions for to dry oven plant, in this case in the cooking chamber you can place a conventional light bulb for 200 ÷ 250 W, for all time of drying.

After completion of the first drying phase, it is possible to proceed to the compulsory measures of - to start heating the stove with a small amount of firewood, with open smoke flaps, but with closed fireboxes.

The furnace is heated for 7 ÷ 10 days according to a special system: for the first two days only 3 ÷ 4.5 kg of firewood is used for the firebox, adding 1 ÷ 1.5 kg of fuel to the original quantity each day, and so throughout the whole timeforced drying.

Check the furnace readiness for full operation in the following way. If after the start of the next furnace in 1.5 ÷ 2 hours on the metal elements there will be no drops of condensate, so you can safely conduct a full-fledged control furnace using a lot of firewood.

If, after a long drying and holding the control furnace, still has slight cracks in the seams between the rows of masonry, do not rush to close them. They need to be watched during the heating season. During this time, they either stop in one position, or the will expand a bit more .Only at the end of the heating season it is possible to carry out repairs, was bridged in and all the flaws appeared.

Safety precautions for commissioning

The oven in the house has a wonderful as it has always been considered a source of heat and special comfort. However, one should also remember about security measures, since if they are not observed, the furnace can become a source of increased danger.

Before each heating season, it is necessary to perform a thorough revision of all - masonry joints, they must be leakproof - should not have deep cracks. Seal the appeared cracks with a solution of clay with the addition of sand.

If, after the start of the firebox, smoke appears in the room, then there is no normal draft, and such a defective stove must not be heated in any case. We must immediately check whether all the latches on the chimney are open. If the chimney is fully open, but the smoke continues to go into the room, then it is necessary to clean the chimney channels.

The chimney must be checked and cleaned at least once a year. However, if the furnace is new and high-quality fuel is used, the chimney, in fact, in no way should not bother for several years. If there is a smoke in this case, there is a risk that the masonry is incorrectly executed somewhere, and will have to invoke the wizard to fix the problems.

If you follow the safety rules and have a good ventilation system in the house, the oven will not be a source of danger, but will become a faithful assistant who will help out in many cases. In addition to the fact that this structure has very wide functionality, the Russian oven is still and will create in the house a unique original color and a special cosiness.

And at the end of the article - one more video, detailing the work of a specialist in the professional laying of a traditional Russian stove.

Video: The work of the master for the construction of the Russian furnace