Heating cooking stoves with their own hands

Professional stoves and folk craftsmen have developed many models of heating and cooking ovens. Such constructions are very convenient. They allow you to simultaneously heat the house and cook food.

Do you want to build a heating and cooking oven yourself? No problem! This will help you step-by-step instructions on the construction of two successful models: "Swedes" and a two-pole stove. Read and proceed.

Name	Average density, kg / m3	Porosity,%	Frost resistance class	Coefficient. Thermal conductivity, W / m * With	Strength grade	Color
Full bodied brick	1600-1900	8	15-50	0,6-0,7	75-300	red
Bricks with chamotte	1700-1900	8	15-50	0,6	75-250	from light yellow to dark red

Building the foundation for the furnace: universal instruction

Regardless of the model of the oven, it needsreliable and solid foundation. This foundation is suitable for both the Swedish and the two-bag model.

The sequence of the support arrangement is as follows.

The first step of the

The swarm is trenched about half a meter deep.

Second step

We flatten the bottom of the pit and cover it with a 15-20 centimeter layer of sand. Water the sand with water and carefully compact it.

Third step

We install the formwork.

Fourth step

We lay the reinforcing cage.

Fifth step

We prepare the mortar from a part of the cement, five pieces of gravel, three parts of river sifted sand and water. Fill with this solution about half of the free horizontal space of the excavation. Let the fill dry.

The sixth step

We prepare the mortar from a part of cement and three parts of sand. Fill the mixture with the remaining space of the pit. The top of the fill is carefully leveled with the help of the rule.

Seventh step

3-4 weeks after pouring we cover the frozen foundation with a layer of roofing material.

We spread the Swede with the hob and oven

We are building a modified version of the Swedish with an oven. Very convenient option - you can heat the house, cook food and bake different dishes.

We proceed to laying.

We spread the first row of .This is the most crucial stage. We put the bricks as accurately as possible, each of them is checked by a level.

In this Swedish swamp will be located on the left. First we put three-quarter bricks. That in the future it was easier to get rid of the ash, we squeeze the inner sides of the bricks towards the inner chamber. To do this, we use the Bulgarian.

Install the door to the door and lay 2nd row in accordance with the order. We wind the door with the asbestos cord before installation. To fix the door we use wire. Next, we can insert it into the pre-prepared grooves in the bricks and embed it in the masonry.

We lay out the 3rd row of stoves according to order. Bricks shake, providing the required form of an ash-pit. In height, this row of masonry will coincide with the previously installed door.

The fourth row of starts to spread from the right side. Pre-install the cleaning door. When laying this row, overlap the door of the door. A square hole must be obtained above the ash pan. For this purpose, the bricks are properly chipped.

The fifth row is stacked like the fourth, but the aperture of the ash pit is narrowed even more.

We lay the sixth row of on the order. On the diagram you see a shaded area. In this place the brickwork must be made with fireclay bricks. For greater convenience of further stacking of fuel on the grid grate, we break the edge of the bricks before the place of its installation. We put the grid on the fifth row.

During the use of the furnace, the metal will expand under the influence of high temperatures. We act prudently and leave between the grid grate and the sixth row of masonry 1-1,5-centimeter gap. In the future, fill it with sand.

In the the seventh row of the we install the furnace door. Then overlap the right channel so that it turns into 3 smaller channels.

The next two rows of are placed in the same way as the seventh. The height of the masonry will be on the same level as the furnace door. To flue gases more smoothly, we shave the edges of bricks, laid on the partition of the right channel and the combustion chamber.

The tenth row of is laid out of refractory bricks. We work as carefully as possible. We check that the leveling of each element is level. On this row we will lay the panel for cooking, so there should not be any distortions and even the slightest irregularities. On the same row, close the door of the furnace compartment. On the right side there will be a pair of channels. They have a square cross section.

The eleventh row of can be laid with simple ceramic bricks. We work by order. We lay the hob, resting it on the 10th row. We rub the edges of bricks 11 of the row bordering the slab. Due to this, a 2-centimeter gap will be created between them.

The eleventh row of is also interesting in that it is during the process of laying the frame for the baffle chamber flap. The damper can be closed at any time, getting an oven.

There are usually no such elements in the orders of typical "Swedes".

When laying the of the 12th series, connect the right channels. We work by order.

Laying out the 13th row of , overlap the right channel and create a pair of new channels.

When laying the of the 14th series, we install a shutter to cover the exhaust gases. Due to such a damper in the cooking process it will be possible to exclude heating of the entire structure. That is, in the summer you can safely cook in the oven food, not heating the house. In the rest, this series repeats previously laid.

When laying the of the 15th series, close the damper.

In the 16th row of we install the door. It will play the role of a kind of extractor to remove the smells of cooking food and burning.

When laying the of the 17th , we install metal support strips above the cooking chamber 2.We block the ventilation door.

In a traditional stove, the overlap is most often done in the form of a dome, but we do it a little differently. We look at the diagram.

We lay the of the 18th and 19th rows of the with a complete cover of the brewhouse. The previously installed metal strips will become a reliable support for overlapping.

When laying out the of the 20th row, is installed on the previously constructed overlap of a couple of bricks on the edge. Between the end wall and these bricks it is necessary to leave a 4-centimeter gap. Install the cleaning door and the chimney flap.

Similarly, put the next row.

When laying the of the 22nd , overlap the previously installed doors. On the right, we will have channels. The cross-section of the middle channel above the cooking chamber is 5 cm, the extreme - 11 cm.

When laying the of the 23rd , we cut the channels above the cooking chamber. We put the bricks on the edge in the same way as the 20th row.

We spread 24th series similar to the previous one.

The next two rows are placed like the newly laid row.

When laying the of the 27th row of the , we set 3 bricks on the edge in such a way that the distances from the stove walls and between adjacent bricks coincide. On the right, we get a channel with a square section.

We lay 28th row, diligently performing the dressing of the masonry seams. The masonry itself is conducted like a previously laid row.

In the next row of we see on the right 1 channel. We lay a couple of bricks on the front side of this channel. We heat bricks in the masonry by 50% of their thickness. One side they will rely on those bricks that we laid on the edge in the last row.

When laying the on the 30th row of the , block the heat compartment. We install the damper of the smoke channel.

The next two rows are put in order. Over the thermal compartment we obtain 3 rows of masonry. Thanks to this, decent safety and heat capacity of the stove will be ensured.

Further we are engaged in arrangement of a chimney. We bring it to the desired height.

On this the Swede is ready. You can heat it with your own power, prepare food and make delicious pastries.

is ready. We are building a two-bulb heating-cooking stove

Such a stove will provide efficient heating of 40-45 m2 of space, which is quite an impressive indicator both for the construction of such modest sizes. Dimensions of the base - 5x3, 5 bricks, i.е.The height of such an oven is 2.25 m.

The diagrams show all the key features of the design of a two-bulb stove.

For vertical visibility, vertical sections of the structure are shown in different angles.

At first it is recommended to lay out each row of bricks without using clay mortar. So you can better understand the features of the masonry structure and adjust the elements to fit.

We lay out the solid 1st row of bricks. We check the consistency of each element with a level.

We spread second the same continuous series. It is desirable that he had rounded corners - so beautiful.

When laying of the 3rd row of , we proceed to the design of an air chamber and an oven, and also set the shape of the lower hood. At the same time, leave a 200-mm channel between the oven and the hood at the bottom. From here we begin to lining the basking parts of the structure with refractory bricks.

Important! Fireclay bricks expand during heating, so between refractory and simple ceramic masonry elements leave a gap of 0.5 mm. The gap can be made with corrugated cardboard. Quite quickly this material will burn out and leave the necessary clearance.

On the third row, install the door of the ash-pit and a couple of cleaning doors.

We proceed to laying of the 4th row .The gap between the oven and the lower hood is reduced to 180 mm. Laying is carried out so that in the rear left part of the place allocated for the placement of the oven, the bricks projected inside. On them in the future will rely on the oven box.

When laying the of the fifth row of , reduce the gap between the hood wall and the oven to 12 cm. Begin to decorate the combustion chamber. It will be above the ash. We overlap part of the blowing compartment with masonry and create cuts. We stack the grid of the grate on the prepared sections so that there is a 5-mm gap between its edges and the laying.

On the sixth row masonry begin to form the walls of the furnace chamber above the grate. For this we use refractory bricks. At the same time we equip the vertical channel connecting the caps at the top and bottom. We make space for the installation of the oven.

At the same stage, mount the oven. Between the brickwork and the oven box, leave a 5 mm gap. To design the required clearance, wrap the oven box with an asbestos cord at the points of its contact with the brickwork. Also leave a 20-millimeter free space behind the back of the box.

When laying the of the seventh row of the , we mount the combustion chamber door. It is best to use a glass door with the ability to regulate the flow of air, however, and an ordinary cast iron product is perfect.

We put the in the eighth row of in the same way as the seventh.

We spread the ninth row of in accordance with the ordering scheme.

When laying the of the tenth row of the , overlap the wind box and the furnace door.

On the 11th row we form the area for the hob. In this case, the bricks laid from the front edge of the stove, you need to move a little outside.

The next row of is laid out similarly to the 11th, but we use only red bricks.

With laying the 13th row of bricks, we make a "summer" move in half a brick.

The next row of is laid out similarly to the 13th.

When laying out the of the 15th series, we begin to form the arch. Its height will be about 260 mm. To lay out the arch, we weak the bricks under the conical shape. The width of the wide part of such a cone will be 140 mm, and the narrow part - 45 mm.

On the , the 16th row of the is covered by the lower hood. At the same stage, on the right side of our "summer" course, we set the bolt, fixing it in pre-prepared grooves. We cut the bricks that connect with the arch to the required angle.

The next row of is laid out like the 16th.

When laying the of the 18th row of the , we proceed to form the hood at the top. We mount a couple of cleaning doors.

When laying 19-series bricks are placed similarly to the 18th row.

On next row of we form a cap at the top. Install the support corners of metal. They will be laid a number of masonry, overlapping the opening, located above the stove.

When laying the of the 21st , we overlap the space above the plate, leaving only the smoke holes and the hood open at the top.

The 22nd row of the is placed like the previous one.

When laying of the 23rd row, lift the hood upwards and proceed to the construction of the drying chamber. Install the cleaning door.

On the 24th row of the masonry to the right of the drying section, we form the articulated channel. It will promote additional air circulation.

The rows from the 25th to the 27th are placed similarly to the 24th row.

When laying the of the 28th row of the , we mount in the previously created cutouts 2 latches.

On the 29th row of the masonry we combine the hoods of the drying section, the cooking chamber, and also the smoke channel.

When registering the of the 30th series, cover the drying chamber completely.

On the , the 31st row of the covers the whole plane, leaving only a hole for evacuation of smoke. This series should have an increased area. We lay external bricks with a 40 mm protrusion outwards.

When laying the of the 32nd , we return the surface area to the previous value.

On the 33-34 series we begin to spread the chimney pipe. We bring it through the roof to the desired height. This indicator is determined individually. According to the rules, the chimney must rise above the highest point of the roof by at least 0.5 m.

After completion of the masonry, it is recommended to allow the stove to dry for 2-3 weeks. Finish finish to your taste. You can whitewash the stove, tile it with tiles, cover with tiles, etc.

Have fun!

Video - Heating cooking stoves with your own hands