How to install a toilet bowl on a tile with your own hands

	Performing the local tile cuts, which will frame the toilet leg, it is better to make a pattern. But, some masters take the dimensions of the mold in place, and immediately transfer them to the tile with a marker. Measurements are started from the right rear corner of the toilet leg.
	This process should be carried out very carefully, with the required consideration of the planned thickness of the gaps between the tiles, since they also have their own width. If an error is made during the measurement, a whole tile can be damaged.
	On the transferred dimensions on the front part of the tile is drawn the area, which must be cut out. To avoid tearing the tiles during cutting, and the cut off part could be easily separated, the contoured section is divided into small sectors in the form of not very wide strips.
	Further, on a special machine, with a stone disc mounted on it, or with a small "grinder" 125 mm, the cut lines are cut, which are then immediately removed one at a time using pliers.
	After the removal of the intended plot of the tile, the fitting is done on the spot. If the cutout is neatly installed near the toilet leg, then the edges of the curved line are machined to smoothness using a round file.
	Next, you need to make measurements for the slice on the tile that will be laid on the side of the toilet leg - this will become the most complex configuration of the mold, so it should be measured very carefully.
	In this case, you will need to remove not the extreme part of the tile, but make a cutout in the middle of one of the sides.
	After transferring and placing the measuring points, a marking of the curvilinear cut is also done on them, and then the area to be removed is divided into separate strips. In addition, the removed fragment is separated from the common tile by dashed notches, which will make it easier to break off the sectors.
	Then, the removed area is cut into strip sectors, after which they are individually cut off or broken off by notches using pliers.
	In the illustrated illustration, the sequence of removing sectors is well illustrated. First cut off the side curved parts, and then, in turn, delete the rest.
	And this illustration shows how easy it is to remove individual parts using pliers.
	Cut the desired shape from the side of the tile, it is laid on the place intended for it. Then, focusing on its location and on the roundness of the front part of the foot, tiles are measured, which will be laid from the front of the toilet. To do this, it defines the part that should be deleted.
	Here it is necessary to take into account that the facade tiles should ideally approach the side on the inner and the outer side.
	Dimensions are transferred to the tile. Further, marking, sawing and breaking up is done, also by sector, as described above. The edges of the tiles are processed, and it also fits into its place.
	In the same way, the tiles are measured, traced and cut out to bypass the second side of the toilet bowl. It should be noted that figured crucibles of ceramic tiles can also be made with a grinder, placing a disc on it on a stone. But to produce such a process qualitatively and without injury, you need to have experience working with this tool. Another way to cut out the shape on the tile is to drill holes around the entire contour of the marked tile sector. However, in this case the cut edge turns out to be jagged, and above it it is necessary to work well to bring it to the ideal state.
	The next step is already possible to lay the cut tile on the glue. Composition is applied to the surface of the floor and to the back of the tile and distributed using a notched trowel. The direction of the furrows on the floor and on the tile should be perpendicular. The tile is stacked, pressed, its evenness horizontally controlled using the building level. If necessary, the tile is tapped lightly with a rubber mallet.
	The installation is carried out in the same order as the cutouts. That is, first the back, side and facade tiles of the right side are first laid, then, in a circle, the front, side and rear on the left side of the toilet leg.
	Further, based on the location of the tiles framing the toilet, the remaining elements of the floor covering are measured, cut and placed on the adhesive throughout the entire area of ​​the toilet room
Illustration	Brief description of the operation

When carrying out large-scale repair and finishing works in a bathroom or toilet room, a toilet bowl is usually replaced. Depending on the situation, its installation can be carried out before laying on the floors of ceramic tiles or finished cladding. How is it better to install a toilet bowl on the tile with your own hands, or do you still have to make this process before laying the flooring? Such questions inevitably arise for everyone who starts repairs for the first time. To determine which method of installation is simpler, and is ideal for a particular case, you need to consider both options.

The installation of floor ceramic tiles on a surface free of various plumbing accessories is certainly much easier, so most masters prefer this approach. Moreover, it is customary to consider this sequence of implementation as technologically correct.

. But such situations also happen, for various reasons, when the laying of tiles is postponed "for later" when plumbing fixtures have already been installed. In this case it is necessary to show the skill of cutting the tile, moreover - in the local configurations, since usually the toilet leg has rounded corners. It is rather difficult to adjust the ceramic tiles under the complex shapes of the toilet bowl with the help of cutting, especially since the tile for floors has a large thickness and high strength. Therefore, those who do not have experience in such a job, to cut it on their own can from the first time and not work. However, since the cases are different, this option should also be considered.

Laying of tiles around the

It should be stressed at once that this variant does not correspond to the correct technology. And you need to be a real virtuoso, so that the work is successful, and its result looked neat. If, for some reason, there is no possibility to dismantle the installed toilet, but you really want to replace the tiled flooring, you should remember about some points that can not be avoided.

• The tiling should be started from the toilet in this case, since if the tile is first laid out on the whole surface, then it can happen that it will be almost impossible to fit it into a complex shape. Therefore, first flanks the toilet leg, and the rest of the tile will already go from it.
• It should be taken into account that it is desirable to arrange the tile symmetrically relative to the center of the front side of the toilet leg.
• Using this method of installing a floor covering, it is necessary to take into account that the material consumption will be much greater than in the case of continuous flooring before installing the toilet bowl. In addition, preparing to do this work, it is necessary to have at least a couple of extra tiles in reserve - in case of unsuccessful cuts with splitting of the material.
• For the work required tools that can not be found in every home, but, unfortunately, without them in this case can not do.

From the shown technology it is visible, that bypassing by ceramic tile of already fastened toilet bowl - one of the most difficult and long processes. In addition to the laborious cutting of parts of this complex material in processing, difficulties are also added due to the fact that the work is carried out in extremely cramped conditions. If a toilet is installed in a combined bathroom, one of the corners of the room is usually allocated for it, in which it is also difficult to make markings and lining.

It is not easy to measure, draw and cut several tiles, and so that they coincide with each other, both on the inner and outer edges, and nicely framed the base of the toilet.

Typically, the marking is not completely symmetrical, so each of the tiles will have to be adjusted to individual measurements. And if it is decided to do the work on the template, then for each element you will have to prepare your pattern.

Another point that can not be overlooked is that the floor in the toilet will rise slightly. If the toilet was installed on a concrete screed, and the whole family is accustomed to its height, then when it changes, it may seem to somebody uncomfortable. Therefore, if you had to use this method of floor reconstruction, you should try to lay the glue mass not too thick layer.

By and large, installing ceramic tiles around an already installed toilet is not a good idea, as this process will take too much time and effort. It will be easier to disassemble the toilet carefully, even if it is embedded in the floor with concrete, level the surface, lay the tile, and then return it to its place - this event will take much less time and save money on purchasing spare flooring material. True, it is very likely that the foundation of the faience toilet, even with a very accurate dismantling, will still crack, and we will have to shell out for a new one.

Two ways to install the toilet bowl on the ceramic tile

. There are two ways to install the toilet on the floor surface with tiles. One of them is quite simple and will suit even those homeowners who are "not rich" in the instrumental "arsenal".The second method of installation is a little more complicated, but this technology is considered the most correct one.

The first way to install - on cement mortar

This method is suitable if the new toilet is installed in the place of the dismantled one. But, you can use it even when the house lacks the tools necessary to fix the plumbing accessory to the floor.

. In order to install a toilet bowl on a tile in this way, you will need a cement mortar or cement based adhesive, a marker, a chisel, a hammer and two spatulas - a narrowand medium width. The installation process itself is carried out in the following order:

• The toilet is installed in the place provided for it and connected to the sewer pipe by a rigid or corrugated adapter. The fitting fitting must be done in order to ensure that all the elements fit perfectly together.
• Next, the base of the toilet leg is surrounded by a marker.
• Then, the toilet is removed, and at the place of its installation, in the circled area, with the help of a chisel and a hammer on the tile, incisions are made. This process must be done carefully, that when strikes remain marks only on the face of the tile, but no cracks develop. It is recommended to carry out this work in safety glasses, so that the chipping crumbs of the coating do not accidentally hit the eyes.

	Installation of the toilet over the laid tiles is much easier than laying the floor covering around the already fixed to the floor of the appliance. In order for the work to pass without a hitch, even when installing the floor covering, it is necessary to carefully remove the sewage pipe to the floor surface, and to the wall - a water outlet for connecting the drain tank. Joints between tiles and pipes should be sealed with trowel for tile joints.
	To the water outlet does not get a solution for laying tiles and sealing seams, it was once closed temporarily with a plug. Before installing the toilet, the piping is installed, through which the water will flow into the drain tank. To do this, first, using a wrench, the plug must be removed from the water outlet. Naturally, before this, it is checked whether the total water supply to the apartment is closed.
	The feed is carried out through the tap, which must be installed in a water outlet. This element can be straight or angled, depending on the location of the toilet bowl. The thread on the faucet is sealed with a FSM tape or other winding, and then it is screwed into the socket. During installation, the valve is usually aligned so that the hole looks down, and on top there is a valve that closes immediately after installation. After this, you can immediately resume the supply of water to the apartment - at the same time and check the quality of the connection between the outlet and the tap for leakage.
	If everything is normal, then a flexible hose in metal braid is screwed to the tap. Before installing it, it is very important to check that the gasket is in place and correctly installed. It is necessary to carry out the installation operations for flexible piping in advance, since it will be much more difficult to perform them when the toilet bowl and the tank are installed due to the small size of the room. After the piping has been completed, you can go directly to the installation of the toilet bowl.
	The next step is to measure the installation site of the toilet bowl. The width of the toilet room is measured, and its middle is determined.
	Marker or pencil on the tile marks are made.
	Having determined and planned the center of the toilet room in the rear part of it and where the front part of the toilet leg is located, these points must be connected by a straight line. It will become a benchmark during the fitting of the sanitary accessories.
	Further, a 45 ° elbow is installed in the drain hole. To be easier to install, the rubber gasket in the sewer pipe must be carefully lubricated with silicone grease.
	In addition, the outer part of the angular transition inserted into the sewage pipe is smeared.
	Further, the prepared parts are joined - the branch is inserted into the socket of the sewer pipe. Since they are pre-treated with silicone compound, there is no need to exert much effort.
	The next step in the corner element is mounted a special adapter for connecting it to the toilet. In the illustrated version of the installation, a rigid adapter is installed, but in some cases it is better to use a corrugated pipe, especially if the sewage outlet is slightly removed from the toilet bowl or located on the side of it. The interlocking parts of the transition elements are also treated with silicone grease. ..
	. .. and then the toilet adapter is inserted into the socket of the previously installed tap.
	As a result, a design of approximately such a configuration should be obtained, which it will be easy to connect with the outlet branch pipe of the toilet bowl. The toilet bowl can be straight, that is, horizontal, or having a certain slope. Accordingly, the transitional details are also selected. The illustration shows an example for a toilet with a straight nozzle.
	The next step is to inspect the bottom of the toilet leg. For this, the device is turned upside down, and if irregularities are found on the surface of its base, they should be immediately removed with a sharp knife or with coarse-grained sandpaper.
	After the toilet base has been cleaned, the appliance is tried on the installation site. At this stage, the drain tank is not yet installed, as there are other main tasks - to qualitatively connect the drainage adapter and the drainage pipe of the toilet bowl, and then ensure reliable attachment of the device to the floor surface.
	Next, the fitting itself is performed. Two conditions must be met: the toilet bowl fits qualitatively with the bell of the adapter( the cuff fits tightly the ceramic stacks of the nozzle from the outside), and the distance from the walls to the toilet is checked - that is, it should stand exactly in the center of the visit. ( This is important for tight toilet rooms.) There is more in the combined bathroom of the toilet installation, of course).
	After the toilet is precisely installed in the right place, with the provision of docking with the sewage system, its base around the perimeter is surrounded by a marker.
	In addition to drawing the contour of the base of the toilet, through the mounting holes in the tile there are points for drilling holes for the fasteners. The marks are made from all sides of the base - exactly by the number and location of the mounting holes( their number can differ for different models of the toilet bowls).
	The toilet bowl is removed again, undocked from the sewage system and is removed to the side. The remaining lines and marking points on the tile will allow further work on the installation of the toilet, without resorting to additional measurements.
	Further, at the marked points, the required holes are drilled through the tile in the floor. This process is best done with a special diamond-drill bit. It is recommended to paste a paint tape before the work - it will soften the pressure of the drill on the surface of the tile, prevent the tip from slipping, and prevent cracking of the tile.
	The next step in the resulting holes is jammed dowels - they usually come complete with fasteners. The work needs to be done carefully, so that you do not accidentally hit the tile with a hammer. These elements must be flush with the tile surface. As already mentioned, before plugging dowels, it is recommended to fill holes with sanitary sealant and then remove the surplus.
	After the fixing holes are ready, the toilet seat is installed in place on the previously made marks, and then it finally joins the sewage pipe so that the adapter cuff fully fits the outlet pipe. For more confidence, it is possible to smear a layer of sealant around the perimeter of the coupling of the cuff to the branch pipe. Further, in the holes in the lower part of the toilet leg, fixing screws are installed, on which plastic washers are used, which are necessary for soft joining of ceramics and metal. Then, using a key, the fixing screws are screwed about halfway.
	After that, the toilet should be slightly raised above the floor, about 7-8 mm, by placing plastic pads under it in two places - front and back.
	These devices will be needed to create a gap that must be filled with silicone. After hardening, this composition will create a reliable support for the toilet bowl.
	Next step along the entire perimeter of the base in the gap is introduced silicone, which must fill the distance from the floor to the toilet bowl completely. Such a large layer of this plastic compound is necessary to form a sufficiently wide gasket.
	When the entire gap space is closed by the silicone, the plastic pads are carefully pulled out and the gaps remaining from them are also completely filled.
	After that, the toilet will lower on the created gasket, and it needs to be pressed lightly. In this case, part of the silicone will come out, and it must be carefully removed, trying not to smear on the surface of the tile.
	But before removing excess silicone, it is necessary to screw in the metal fastening screws completely.
	The main part of the silicone can be removed with a damp cloth or with a narrow spatula.
	Then, the composition remaining in the gap, you need to align plastic shovel or the same narrow spatula, creating a neat edging. The blade can be made by itself, cutting it out of plastic, but its end edge should be perfectly even and smooth. If there are marks on the silicone from the tool, they can be properly ironed with a finger, soaking it in a soap solution beforehand.
	Further work can be continued only after the silicone has seized well. The time of its setting should be indicated on the package. After this, the screws of the fixing screws must be closed with plastic caps, which will give a more aesthetic appearance to the structure, and also protect the screws against moisture ingress.
	The next stage is the installation of a drain tank. Since this element may have a different design, before proceeding with its installation it is worthwhile to carefully study the installation instructions attached to the kit, to understand the way of connection with the toilet bowl and the fasteners and gaskets used for this. In this model the tank is joined through a soft rubber gasket installed on the toilet hole.
	For connection of two units, special bolts with rubber sealing collars under the head are usually used.
	Bolts are installed in the through holes of the tank, and then in the holes located on the rear horizontal area of ​​the toilet, and tighten the nuts from the lower side of it.
	When tightening the bolts, it is necessary to control the horizontality of the tank by setting the building level on top of it. In case of what between the tank and the toilet seat can be laid on one side or with both elastic rubber lining.
	After the tank has been installed and fixed, the tank filling and draining system is being installed - in accordance with the instructions attached to the specific model. To the threaded fitting located at the bottom of the tank( at the bottom of the tank) or from the side( at the top), a flexible water hose is screwed on the outside. To seal this connection, a rubber gasket is used that is inside the nut at the end of the hose, that is, no winding is normally required. Next, the tank cover is installed with the drain button. After this, you can open the tap on the water outlet and check the tightness and correctness of the entire system. In the case of which - individual corrections are made: tightening of connections, adjustment of the float mechanism, etc.
	Further, if the tests were successful, the final stage of the work is the installation of the seat and the lid of the toilet bowl with the help of two bolts, also included in the kit. After that the toilet bowl can be considered ready for operation.
Illustration	Brief description of the operation

• Instead of notches, you can chaotically paste waterproof paint tape on the circled area. O is also capable of creating a rough substrate, on which the solution is well fixed. It is important to ensure that the tape pasted does not go beyond the edges of the contour.
• The next step is to make a concrete solution of sand and cement in a proportion of 2: 1, or dilute the tile adhesive. The latter solution is preferable, as it quickly sets and has a fine granularity of the powder, which is much more convenient than concrete, in which large fractions of sand can be found. A ready solution will require 3 ÷ 4 kg.
• Next step, the finished mixture is laid out on the prepared and moistened area of ​​tile with notches or glued on it with paint tape.
• Then, the bottom section of the toilet leg is also wetted around the perimeter, and the device is placed at a specific place for it. Under its foundation, two plastic pads with a thickness of 5 ÷ 7 mm and a width of 50 ÷ 80 mm are laid from the front and back sides. These elements are necessary to create a "cushion" from the solution between the tile and the toilet. It is very important when performing this operation to set the bowl of the toilet bowl by the level, since it should stand without distortions, ideally horizontally.
• The solution, which has protruded from the edges of the toilet leg, is immediately collected with a spatula, and the joint seam is neatly leveled. The gaskets can be removed only after the solution has seized well, and the remaining grooves should also be filled with a solution and aligned. The drying time of the tile adhesive is indicated on the package, and the concrete should stand unused for at least 3 ÷ 4 days. Use the toilet bowl only after the solution has completely hardened.

The disadvantage of this method of installation is that if it is necessary to disassemble the toilet, it is not always possible to remove it completely - it usually ends with a splitting of the base.

The second way of installation - on the regular fixings to the floor

. According to the existing technology, this method of installation is considered the most correct, therefore all the necessary fastening elements go to the toilet. However, in order to implement it, some tools will be needed - in particular, an electric drill and drills, suitable for drilling ceramic tiles, will be required.

. In addition, for installation work you will need:

• Adjustable wrench.
• FUM tape or other rewind( eg linen tow and "Unipak" paste).
• Silicone sealant.
• Marker.
• Sandpaper.
• Spatula.
• A set of fasteners for assembling the drain tank and toilet bowl, as well as for fixing the entire structure to the floor.

To get the job done successfully, it is worth starting to get acquainted with some useful tips that will help to perform it more quickly and qualitatively:

• Since using this way of installing the toilet, you have to drill the tile, before starting work, you need to scratch the glaze with core, so that the drill stably stands on the surface and does not slip during the start of drilling. Instead of applying such a notch, you can use another simple method - to stick a paint tape in the place where the hole will be located, and then mark on it the point for installing the drill. Start drilling is recommended by a thin drill - they need to go through the thickness of the tile. Well, then you can expand and deepen the hole with a drill of the required diameter, corresponding to the size of the dowels and bolts.
• It is advisable to treat the tile with a sandpaper in the place of application of the sealant under the edges of the toilet leg. The resulting roughness will ensure better adhesion of the two ceramic surfaces.
• It is recommended that before opening the plugs, fill them with silicone, and then wipe off excess surplus with a cloth.

An independent installation of the toilet bowl on the ceramic base is carried out in the following order:

In conclusion of the publication - a cognitive video showing the installation of a toilet seat of a slightly different design

Video: installation of a toilet bowl on ceramic tiles

We hope that, having read all the recommendations and installation rules, any apartment owner can easily cope with all such works. Therefore, you can safely, but without hurrying, go directly to the process of installing the toilet bowl by one of the chosen methods, or to work on facing it around the perimeter of ceramic tiles.