Connecting the dishwasher to the water supply and sewerage

To dishwashers in most people the attitude is still quite cautious - is it worth buying expensive equipment, if you wash the dishes, in principle, easily and manually. However, if you recall the recent past, then approximately the same thing was said about automatic "washers", about food processors, even about TVs at the dawn of the appearance of remote controls, and now without it it is difficult to imagine a normal way of life. By good and comfortable get used quickly, so many owners who have already installed a dishwasher in their kitchen, will never want to lose such "convenience."

Their example is followed by others, and dishwashers are increasingly becoming an attribute of modern cuisine. However, this is not at all the kind of home appliances that you can simply unpack, plug into an outlet and immediately start using. In addition to the rather complicated electromechanical "stuffing" and automation, such a device, in a certain, of course, degree, is also a plumbing fixture. Therefore, an extremely important point is the correct connection of the dishwasher to the water supply and sewerage."Self-initiative" in this matter is not welcomed - will have to comply with a number of specific requirements. Let's try to understand this in more detail.

Some general recommendations for installing

That if the owners do decide to buy a dishwasher, then they have already thought out in advance the place of its installation. In general, it depends on which model is more to your liking - a compact desktop or built-in kitchen furniture. Accordingly, there may be serious differences in the installation and connection of the device to communications.

In both cases, the place of installation of the machine is tried as close as possible to the area of ​​the kitchen sink. This is explained simply - it is possible to connect the device to engineering communications, without resorting to a complicated procedure for tapping into pipes - it is enough to have those connections and assemblies that supply water to the mixer and drain it from the sink to the sewer. Extension of the regular hoses of the dishwasher, especially the drain hose, is not welcome, as the capacity of the pump is limited, and it is not necessary to overload it, so as not to cause rapid wear.

However, this arrangement is not at all a dogma - you can place the dishwasher in a place more convenient from the point of view of the owners, but in such a way that in the radius of the length of the regular hoses there was the possibility of tapping into the corresponding pipes of the water supply and sewerage system( this example will also beis considered in the publication), or it will be necessary to think over the laying of an additional section of such pipes for the purpose of connecting the device.

Undoubtedly, the power supply line of the corresponding section must be pre-installed in the future installation site of the dishwasher, and a separate outlet must be installed, necessarily with a ground loop. The use of extension cords should be completely eliminated. Water, high humidity and electricity - and so already quite a dangerous "neighborhood", so no connivances like: "Petit is so connected - and nothing terrible" - absolutely unacceptable.

Power supply of kitchen is a matter of increased importance!

Distinctive features of any kitchen are not only a high level of humidity and constant use of water, but also, perhaps, the largest consumed power installed in it electrical appliances. Refrigerator, microwave, washing machine and dishwasher, extractor hood, electric stove and oven, and this is not even considering lighting and small appliances! How to properly organize the electricity supply of the kitchen - is described in detail in the article of our portal dedicated to wiring installation in the apartment .

The installation site must be prepared - there must be a suitable niche for inserting the required dimensions or free space on the table top for desktop installation. The base must ensure a reliable position of the device, in a strictly horizontal position, with support on all racks in order to avoid looseness or increased vibration. Each dishwasher model has its own requirements for site preparation, the technical documentation describes the installation, the kit usually includes all the necessary fasteners.

dishwasher There is one more nuance of preparation for installing the machine - it must be taken into account in advance. Many models on the back of the case have outlets of the power cable and hoses, displaced to one side. Thus, the allowed distance to the connection points can be different on the left and right of the dishwasher. Usually this feature is also indicated by the manufacturer in the technical documentation.

Before taking on the self-installing dishwasher, the owner must very carefully evaluate his abilities and abilities. If you have any doubts about your own abilities, it is better to invite an experienced plumber with positive recommendations( there are a lot of frank "shabashnikov" in this field).The fact is that a violation of the installation rules may well lead to termination of the manufacturer's warranty obligations. Often, in large salons-stores, a branded installation is practiced, for a low price, and sometimes even for free, as one of the ways to stimulate consumer activity. This question should be specified at once at purchase.

In the event that such a service is not provided, and the call of the master is seen as a significant extra expense, then nothing is impossible and in an independent installation. And if you "put bracket" the already mentioned power supply line and the features of mounting the device in a niche, then the main stage of the process is the correct connection of the dishwasher to the water supply and sewerage.

Connecting the dishwasher to the water and sewer system

The sequence of steps, and whether there is always a need for a permanent connection to the

These steps can be carried out in any order. By and large, the preparation for the connection will be more difficult - mounting all the elements necessary for this. And, in fact, the switching of the hoses coming out of the dishwasher with the water supply and sewerage will be the final step, which is carried out almost simultaneously, together with the final installation of the device in place.

You can immediately mention a single moment. Tabletop dishwashers, in principle, can sometimes do without the stationary connection to the communications. The water supply hose in this case is connected directly to the spout of the kitchen mixer( there are special adapters for this), and the drain hose is lowered and fixed in the wash bowl.

kitchen sink. Sometimes such a scheme is presented almost as an outstanding virtue - they say, the owners have the opportunity to economically use the space of the countertop, taking it out of storage and installing the dishwasher only as needed.

Let me disagree with such "virtues":

• The first - it is unlikely to find such owners who will carry massive machinery back and forth. It's just inconvenient, and it does not work for an expensive device. And to use the dishwasher from time to time, "on holidays" - so why should it be purchased at all? She should become a true helper in the kitchen, and not at all an object of "secret pride" of her owners.
• Second - from the frequent connections and disconnections of the water supply hose, not a single connection will last for a long time - neither screwed nor bell-shaped. It is not very good for the mixer too - the extra load on the spout will blend it.
• Third - the discharge hose from the dishwasher is lowered into the bowl of the sink and there is a certain danger. Inaccurate movement, sharp head, children's prank - all this can lead to the hose coming out of the shell outward with all the consequences( in the literal sense) of the consequences.
• And the fourth - it's just uncomfortable. Simplifying their work with the initial installation of the device, the owners significantly complicate their further use. The operation of the dishwasher will require constant monitoring, and in addition, while the washing process is in progress, the kitchen sink is practically "paralyzed", which can be required at that time for other needs.

So, the best solution is still a fixed connection to the water supply and sewerage, regardless of the type of model. And no tangible difference in the order of the work - no.

Connecting the dishwasher to the water pipe

Let's start by connecting the water supply.

For a start - a small remark. There is an opinion that in order to save the dishwasher is more advantageous to connect to a hot water pipe, they say, expensive energy will not be spent on heating the water to the required temperature for the washing program.

Indeed, some models of dishwashers support this option. Moreover, there are even cars in which it is planned to connect simultaneously to two mains - cold and hot water supply.

This must all be stated in the product passport. Connect the machine to hot water, if this possibility is not specified by the manufacturers, it is prohibited. The electronics of the device may not understand this, and this self-activity often ends with the "departure" of the programmed dishwashing algorithms.

But even if such a choice between hot and cold water supply is provided, almost all masters unanimously recommend not experimenting, and confine themselves to the usual connection to cold water. There are a number of logical explanations for this.

- Firstly, the quality of hot water is often far from ideal.

- Secondly, it happens that the water temperature in the hot water pipe exceeds the necessary level of heating installed for the dishwasher. It seems that it's okay, but again it can "mislead" the program control unit of the device.

- Thirdly, it's not a secret for anyone that hot water problems happen many times more often than with cold water, and in summer, during the period of repair and maintenance work in boiler rooms, there can be long-term shutdowns. It turns out that in such situations it will be necessary to switch to manual washing of dishes or to immediately switch to a cold feed. Is not it too troublesome?

- And fourth, in matters of economy - too, everything is not so obvious. Modern dishwashers class A and above are characterized by very rational consumption of both water and electricity, and should not "breach" the budget due to bills for electricity. On the other hand, if the apartment is equipped with water meters, then the consumption of water for washing dishes will have to pay for the "hot" tariff, and he too is rather big.

Decide, of course, the owner, but good advice - to connect to cold water.

Now, actually, about the connection itself. There may be several options.

A. The simplest solution is when the installation site of the dishwasher and the length of its hoses provide the possibility of connecting to a branch pipe to which a flexible line connecting the kitchen faucet is connected.

To do this, tools will only need a swivel wrench, sealing wrap, and you will need to purchase a special pass-through tee with a crane designed specifically for such purposes.

layout. This tee has a ½ "female thread for packing onto the water pipe connection( item 1), from the opposite end there is a 1/2" male thread( item 2)for the return connection of a flexible mixer feeder, that is, it provides a through passage of water. The side branch is fitted with a 3/4 "threaded part( key 3), ideal for connecting hoses for dishwashers or washing machines. The tap( item 4) allows you to open and close the water supply in this direction as needed.

Connection will not be very difficult.

• The common cold water inlet valve is blocked. Further, it is possible to open any water tap( best - located closest to the floor level) in order to relieve excess pressure in the cut off section of the domestic water supply.
• Then, using a wrench, the nut of the flexible mixer nut is turned off, the threaded part of the nozzle is released. If necessary, the remains of the old winding are removed from it.
• The next step is winding the sealing winding, in the direction of tightening the nut. FSM tape can be used for these purposes, but more reliable is a joint sealed with ordinary linen sticks with a special "Unipak" paste.

• The wound tee is tightly wound on the wound thread. When tightening, make sure that the side outlet with the tap is in a convenient position for connecting the hose of the dishwasher.

Here you can immediately note one important point. Many modern dishwashers are equipped with an "aqua-stop" system, which has an electromagnetic valve, which immediately closes the water supply to the hose if there are signs of leakage( pressure drop).The body of this valve is large enough, and it is located on the side of the hose that connects to the water pipe.

dishwasher hose This means that when preparing for operation, and already when installing the tee, it is necessary to take into account how this "aqua-stop" block will stand, whether there will be enough room for it.

• After the tee is installed, you can immediately install a flexible plug in the kitchen mixer, if necessary, changing the rubber ring gasket.
• The crane on the tee is placed in the "closed" position, and after that it is possible to open the common water supply - at once it will be possible to check the assembly for leaks, and if necessary, carry out a lift.

• The last step is screwing the plastic hose of the dishwasher hose. It has its own O-ring, and no winding is required. Twisting is done without the use of any kind of tool - a fairly well-applied effort of the hand.

This, in fact, the option of connecting to the water pipe directly under the kitchen sink can be considered completed. But it is worth paying attention to one more nuance.

tee Use of the tee-off circuit will be convenient if one additional point of draw-off is connected. However, in practice, the space under the sink is often loaded much more. For example, hoses of washing and dishwashers can be brought in here, a filter for fine cleaning of drinking water is installed, moreover, a flowing water heater( column) or a boiler is often connected.

Under these conditions, the tee system does not justify itself: under the sink a complex and heavy-weight construction of tees and adapters is formed, surrounded by a "cobweb" of hoses and flexible leaks, which creates considerable difficulties both for monitoring and for carrying out any preventive or repair work. It is much more convenient to install a small collector from below, for 4 ÷ 5 outputs, connect it to a water pipe, and from it already conduct commutation to all points of draw-off.

Such a collector can be purchased in finished form - metal or polypropylene. For those who have at their disposal a device for welding PP pipes, it will not be difficult to very quickly make a collector of the desired configuration from polypropylene tees - this is often even more profitable.

In this case, to connect the dishwasher is no longer a pass-through tee, but an adapter with a tap.

The collector can be securely fixed on the wall surface( with clamps or dowels) and all branched switching in the space under the sink will take an organized look. In addition, the interdependence of the connected devices working at the same time will be minimized - in the case of the trigeminal scheme, the opening of water at a single point of water extraction usually leads to a drop in the pressure on others.

B. The second option - the length of the hoses before washing is not enough, to increase them - is inappropriate or impossible due to the layout of the kitchen furniture, but next to the installation place of the dishwasher there is a cold pipewater supply.

The principle is simple - it is necessary to cut off the water, cut out a small section of the pipe, and replace it with a tee. To the perpendicular outlet of the tee, the above-mentioned tap is already packed, and the dishwasher hose is connected to it.

The execution of such an alteration depends on the pipe material.

• If it is a metal-plastic pipe, then there is no difficulty. The fragment is cut out, and in its place a tee with press fittings is put, for which a set of spanners is sufficient. Next - the installation of a crane with a conventional winding - and the unit is ready to connect the device.

• metal-plastic pipe. It is not much harder to cut into the polypropylene pipe, however, a special welding machine will be needed for this. Of course, it is unprofitable to purchase it because of three or four joints, but usually it is not difficult to rent such a device for a day or two, it is not so expensive.

Welding machine for polypropylene pipes - a reliable home helper.

To be honest, your own inexpensive equipment for welding polypropylene pipes can never be hindered - it can bulge in various situations, it will easily and cheaply modernize home communications. How to properly choose device for welding polypropylene pipes - in a special publication of our portal. And another article will help you quickly and easily learn the self-assembly of the polypropylene pipeline .

When welding polypropylene on an area that has already been installed, a certain play of the pipe is necessary, so that it is possible to weld the mating parts from both sides to the soldering iron. This is not always possible, so it's easier to dig into two union nuts, "American women", and between them already mark the usual brass tee with a tap on it packed to connect the hose to the dishwasher.

• polypropylene pipe. The hardest part is if you need to crash into a steel pipe.

- It is possible to cut a section, cut the thread on the remaining ends, and already from it to mount the tee, or by the principle of driving, or also using "American women".The disadvantage is the difficulty with thread cutting, since a special tool is required.

- Another option - the installation of a so-called repair holder( shroud tee).

tripod type repair ring looks like. This product allows to cut into a steel pipe practically at any convenient place on a straight section. The clip with rubber seals is installed on the pipe in the desired position, tightened tightly with bolts. Then, through the hole of the tee, the pipe wall is carefully drilled. Next, everything is simple - packing the crane and connecting the hose, as usual.

The method is quite simple, but, to be honest, it is not particularly praised. First, the body of the pipe is weakened. Secondly, there are known cases of leaks beginning in this place, and eliminating them - it will be very difficult. And in the third, a hole drilled in a pipe often becomes a vulnerable place from the point of view of formation of blockages.

V. Finally, the third option, when the dishwasher is located far from the cold water pipe.

To increase the length of the hoses is to increase the vulnerability of communications to possible leaks - any flexible connection is still less reliable than a stationary quality pipe. Hence, it is necessary to water and lead to the machine.

The laying of an additional section of the water pipe to the installation site of the device is usually not difficult, and it will not require much money. Another thing, as far as it will be convenient, and beautiful. If the pipe completely disappears behind objects of kitchen furniture - there are no questions.

But the best of all, of course, all the issues of the future installation to think in advance, that is, when installing domestic water and sewerage immediately provide a point of connection of household appliances. The ideal option is a hidden laying of pipes with the installation of water outlets on the walls in the right places.

Connecting the dishwasher to the sewer

You can find a lot of articles in which it is stated that the connection of the dishwasher to the sewer is in general the simplest operation that does not require compliance with any rules. A pier, the drainage hose of the device is installed through a rubber sealing sleeve in a specially prepared for it socket 50 mm sewage pipe - and this question is resolved. Alas, not everything is so simple, and followers of this technique may well encounter very unpleasant moments.

Firstly, the must be a water trap, otherwise unpleasant smells from the sewer will penetrate the hose inside the dishwasher.

Secondly , caution against reverse flow of water from the sewer to the machine. To do this, the upper loop of the drain hose should be located at least 400 ÷ 500 mm from the floor level. Where did these values ​​come from? Apparently, the level of the filled bath is taken into account - with the sharp release of water and some temporary problems with the patency of the sewage pipe, the water in it, according to the physical law of the communicating vessels, will tend to rise to the overall current level. A loop-shaped bend at the correct height will not allow it to penetrate the dishwasher.

Thirdly, the , the direct connection of the drain hose to the sewer pipe using a seal, makes this connection virtually sealed. Strangely enough, but in this case it is not at all a virtue. Ideally, the pressure in the sewer pipes should be leveled with the atmospheric pressure, so that the rarefaction areas are not created. Otherwise, it can end with a so-called "siphon effect" - a massive discharge of water in one of the sections causes spontaneous current to flow to others connected to it. This leads to the fact that the pipe itself starts to "suck" water from the dishwasher. This phenomenon can cause unbalance of automation, the emergence of software errors and even the outage of equipment. By the way, the reverse option is also possible - throwing dirty drains into a car, the consequences of which you do not even want to think about.

But on the other hand, the leaky connection of a hose and a pipe is a possibility of leakage and the spread of unpleasant odors. How to do it right.

There are several acceptable options:

• One of the simplest, inexpensive and efficient is the installation on the kitchen sink of a drain siphon with a special branch pipe for connection of drainage hoses of household appliances.

As can be seen from the illustration, the siphon can have two sockets - if there is a need to connect both a washing machine and a dishwasher.

The branch pipe usually ends with a conical socket, the relief, stepped surface of which ensures reliable fixation of the plug after tightening the yoke.

This connection of the drain hose, in principle, meets all of the above requirements:

- The water seal from the spread of odors from the sewer side is provided by the very design of the kitchen siphon.

- The connection point is located at the top, the upper bend of the drainage channel is formed by itself.

- At the same time, the drain hose is not sealed with the sewer pipe - it communicates with the atmosphere through the drain hole of the sink. That is, the siphon effect is completely eliminated.

• The above method is very good, but, alas, it is not always possible. For example, washing is located beyond the reach of the drain hose of the dishwasher, and it is necessary to stretch the section of the sewage pipe. Another example is the very design of the sink and its "firm" sink does not imply making any changes, and such a connection becomes impossible.

There is nothing to do, it is necessary to connect to the sewer pipe. If its output is already occupied by the corrugated tube from the sink - it's okay, you can put the "oblique" tee, reconnect the siphon, and use the second output for the dishwasher. And the connection here, whatever one may say, still have to be sealed, using a rubber sealing clutch, otherwise you can not avoid an unpleasant smell.

But what about the other connection requirements?

The easiest way to solve the problem is to provide a water seal and provide the required height of the loop. You can buy a special polymer insert( they are often even included in the delivery of equipment), fix it in the intended location on the wall, fix the hose in it at the correct height. In this case, it is necessary to achieve a hose position so that the lower bend( like the letter S) is necessarily created - it will serve as a water seal.

But what about the potential threat of a "siphon effect"?On this account, there are also ready-made solutions.

- Installation on the hose of the simplest "antisiphon" valve.

It is worth such a product is inexpensive, and it is very easy to install. The hose is cut, and then it is connected already by means of this valve, with the hose clamps tightened. The shortage of the simplest device is a short period of operation, usually not exceeding half a year. After this, you will have to purchase a new valve, since it can not be practically not serviced.

- A more reasonable option is to purchase a valve "antisiphon", executed in the form of a loop. Not only is this solved immediately by all the problems of the correct placement of the hose - such devices are completely subject to regular cleaning, that is, they will serve significantly longer.

A little more expensive and difficult to implement, but extremely convenient to use and meet all the requirements of the solution is the installation of a special wall siphon for the dishwasher( washing machine).They can be wall-mounted or concealed, of varying degrees of decorativeness, but they are united by the presence of all necessary valve devices that ensure the safety of the device's connection to the sewage system.

The rear wide nozzle is hermetically connected to a vertically arranged 50 mm drainage pipe, and the drain hose of the dishwasher is connected to the front pipe. In fact, it turns out a kind of analogue of a water outlet, just the opposite purpose. They are usually replaced by a number, creating a special switching zone of the device.

Moreover, if you want to give such a connection node also external "imposing", you can buy a whole console design that includes a drain siphon with all valves, and a wateroutlet with a crane, and even a power outlet. Such devices are usually equipped with decorative facade plates - and beautiful, and everything you need to connect as in the palm of your hand.

And, finally, one more very interesting technological solution can be mentioned. Some manufacturers are completing their models with a special valve that provides the necessary air gap to prevent negative impact from the sewerage. The constructive approach is very interesting: the valve cuts into the surface of the countertop or the rear horizontal panel of the kitchen sink.

. Such a valve is placed in a place where it does not interfere, the top is covered with a decorative cap. From time to time he will demand preventive maintenance, but to remove the cap and clean it will not be difficult.

So, various variants of connection of the dishwasher to a waterpipe and the water drain have been considered. Some of them are quite simple, others require certain knowledge and skills. Nevertheless, one can not say about one that it is completely inaccessible for independent execution.

In conclusion - a small video clip in which the master shares his experience of connecting the dishwasher. After receiving the information outlined in the article, the reader will probably be interested to see and analyze some errors made by the installer. It is not necessary to blindly copy this.

Video: example of connecting a dishwasher